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![](http://santamariashirtmakers.com/cdn/shop/files/Central_Pleat_400x_01479b6c-b540-4f91-8a0a-0ac6e593927b.jpg?v=1704901247&width=1)
Central pleat
The center box pleat is a classic design detail and a more casual option traditionally seen on Brooks Brothers and Gitman button downs or similar styles. Like the rear side pleats, it adds 2″ of fabric to increase range of motion reaching forward. Style wise, the center box pleat is not ideal for super slim fitting shirts.
![](http://santamariashirtmakers.com/cdn/shop/files/Central_pleat_with_hook_400x_7159cf1f-c6a7-4887-9cc3-05babfe2f2a7.jpg?v=1704901486&width=1)
Central pleat with hook
Originally placed at the back of the shirt collar, it was meant to keep a man’s shirt wrinkle-free in the Ivy League locker rooms. Select this option for a more sporty look.
![](http://santamariashirtmakers.com/cdn/shop/files/Flat_400x_9359a10b-d5fe-46a5-a12c-4ba0d12c9217.jpg?v=1704901530&width=1)
Flat
No back pleats on the back of the shirt makes for a clean, slim look. If you’re going for a more modern, fitted look that is fitted through the chest and midsection then this will be the best choice.
![](http://santamariashirtmakers.com/cdn/shop/files/Flat_with_Side_Darts_400x_9f966cf6-bf0e-4819-bf39-8d9bbce1d483.jpg?v=1704901555&width=1)
Flat with side darts
Side darts will give your shirt a fitted appearance.
![](http://santamariashirtmakers.com/cdn/shop/files/Outer_Pleats_400x_ebbe46f7-b4b7-49b6-ac37-c13523f19041.webp?v=1704901607&width=1)
Outer pleats
Selecting rear side pleats will add a total of 2″ of additional fabric across the upper back of the shirt compared to the no pleats option while keeping the yoke and chest width the same. Rear side pleats are a great option if the purpose of adding them is to increase range of motion when reaching forward.
Placket
![](http://santamariashirtmakers.com/cdn/shop/files/English_Placket_400x_46296141-e94c-46bd-afc4-aadea8037e00.jpg?v=1704903328&width=1)
English placket
We recommend this dressy placket for formal or business wear.
![](http://santamariashirtmakers.com/cdn/shop/files/Hidden_placket_400x_1b7a7aa8-34f4-4d13-85a8-e8c621a096ce.jpg?v=1704903416&width=1)
Hidden placket
This placket features hidden buttons. It's recommended when you want a polished look.
![](http://santamariashirtmakers.com/cdn/shop/files/No_Placket_400x_98ecc30a-3c8c-40d5-b437-06d74be0e7e9.jpg?v=1704903681&width=1)
No placket
We recommend this dressy placket for formal or business wear.
![](http://santamariashirtmakers.com/cdn/shop/files/pique-plaquet_400x_db6b99ac-db40-4d6b-8820-cc7d172aa609.webp?v=1704903783&width=1)
Piquet placket
The pique is closely associated with white tie. It's the most formal choice for a tuxedo shirt. It holds more starch than plain fabric, so produces a stiffer shirt front. You'll want to go with French cuffs and a nice set of studs with a pique bib. The pique bib front looks best with a peak or shawl lapel jacket, and we suggest it for any event labeled white tie. We recommend to pair it with a spread (but not cutaway) collar, unless you're going to a white tie event, which calls for a traditional wingtip.
![](http://santamariashirtmakers.com/cdn/shop/files/pleated-placket_400x_348237b0-179c-44d6-baed-a7cb89700237.webp?v=1704904003&width=1)
Pleated placket
The pleated front works in just about any formal wear setting. We recommend to pair it with a spread (but not cutaway) collar, unless you're going to a white tie event, which calls for a traditional wingtip.