Shirt Guide

Our Shirt Guide

A refined guide to fabrics, craftsmanship, collars, and construction—designed to help you create a shirt that reflects your style and standards.

Fabric Types

Poplin

Poplin is a tightly woven fabric with a very simple over-under weave and very little sheen, which ensures a nice professional finish. Poplins are great for guys who are looking for minimal texture in their fabrics. They are generally a thinner, lighter fabric. In particular, white poplin fabrics can be slightly transparent. Poplins generally wear the smoothest out of all weaves owing to their lack of texture.

Oxford

Oxford fabric is a very popular fabric used for shirts, particularly for the more casual or sporty styles. It is a slightly thicker fabric than what we’d consider “fine” dress shirt fabric, and has a hearty feel which is both durable and naturally resistant to wrinkles. Overall, a nice casual Oxford shirt is a wardrobe essential due to its durability and versatile. Pair it with a button down collar and single cuff.

Royal Oxford

Royal Oxford fabric has an elaborate weave which gives it a distinctive, significant texture. It’s shiny and well known for its softness. Something about the weave makes the yarns puff out a bit and it just feels comfortable and nice. Don’t confuse Royal Oxford cloth with regular Oxford cloth, or pinpoint Oxford cloth as these are totally different. Regular Oxford is a much heavier, rougher, and more durable fabric. As Royal Oxford fabric is such a fancy looking fabric, we especially recommend it for French cuff dress shirts and wide spread collar dress shirts.

Pinpoint

Pinpoint or Pinpoint Oxford fabric is a variation of the Oxford cloth. The yarns are finer making it a subtle mix of poplin and oxford. Pinpoint is both dressy and durable. It has a slight shine, but not as much as Royal oxford or twill. It works well in both formal and casual occasions. A pinpoint dress shirt feels substantial. Pinpoint generally has a higher thread count and a lighter, finer weave then Oxford. Therefore, pinpoint dress shirts are preferable to Oxford dress shirts in formal situations. Pinpoint makes for an elegant wedding dress shirt or business interview dress shirt, while Oxford cloth would be better suited for a casual or outdoor event.

Fil-à-fil

Fil-à-fil (also end on end) fabric is woven with threads in two different colours giving it an irregular effect. It is a thin and comfortable material suitable for solid colour shirts. Fil-à-fil fabrics are a very popular type of dress shirt fabric with distinct contrast colouring. Woven with coloured thread in the warp and white thread in the weft, it appears truly solid from a distance, but has more texture when seen from up close. Typically a lighter weight fabric, it’s a great choice to achieve a professional look.

Twill

Twill fabric is a weaving method which creates a diagonal pattern in the fabric. These fabrics are generally softer and thus more wrinkle resistant - however not wrinkle free - than plain weaves. Twill is a beautiful fabric. It is detailed, elaborate and is available in a variety of patterns and styles. Twill fabrics are substantial (thick) and not transparent. Twill fabrics will also usually be a bit shinier and really soft.

Herringbone weave

Is a variation of the Twill weave, the only difference being that the pattern produced resembles the bones of a fish.

Linen

Linen fabrics are incredibly breathable and, like seersucker, typically made to be worn in hot climates. Linen is made from fiber of the flax plant, and can be very labor intensive to produce. Typically linen will be more loosely woven and sheer than most cotton shirts, and it has a very unique dry hand to it that is unlike cotton. Linen also tends to wrinkle more easily than cotton and generally feels much more relaxed because of this.

Flannel

A flannel shirt fabric is a particularly soft woven fabric which has undergone a special brushing treatment to achieve a brushed texture. Some flannels are brushed on only one side, while others are brushed on both sides. The majority of shirting flannels tend to be made with cotton. Flannel fabrics are popular for casual wear in the colder months. Flannels will come in a variety of patterns, but most commonly either solids or checks.

Seersucker

Seersucker is a thin cotton fabric, commonly striped or checked where the yarns are woven in a special way to give the fabric the typical uneven or bumpy texture traditionally used to make clothing for warm or hot weather.

Poplin

Oxford

Royal Oxford

Pinpoint

Fil-à-fil

Twill

Herringbone weave

Linen

Flannel

Seersucker

Fabric Technical Guide

Thread count

The number of threads woven into one square inch of fabric. Higher thread counts indicate finer yarns, softness, and a more luxurious feel.

Warp Count

Cloth is created by the weaving of horizontal and vertical threads called the warp and weft. Weft yarns run vertically.

Weft count

Cloth is created by the weaving of horizontal and vertical threads called the warp and weft. Weft yarns run horizontal.

Weight

The weight of the fabric is measured as grams per square meter. This is a method of measuring both the thickness of the fabric and how densely it is woven.

Ply

Ply refers to the number of yarns which are twisted together to make a single thread. When two yarns are combined the result is known as two-ply yarn. Two-ply yarns resist the fibers' normal tendency to shed, or 'pill'. Fabrics woven from two-ply yarn will have greater durability and longevity and will be heavier while fabrics woven of single yarn will be smoother.

Finest Italian Fabrics

Our fabrics are crafted from carefully selected yarns and undergo rigorous quality control to ensure luminosity, softness, and longevity. We use luxurious two-ply Egyptian cotton and work with the world’s finest mills to deliver enduring elegance.

Loro Piana

Loro Piana is an iconic Italian luxury textile mill and brand, founded in 1924, renowned for its mastery in sourcing and crafting the world's finest and rarest fibers into exceptional fabrics of unparalleled quality and elegance.

Thomas Mason

Founded in Lancashire in 1796 by entrepreneur Thomas Mason, the eponymous label has been a landmark for elegance and quality, in the world of English shirting tradition.

David and John Anderson

DJA has a wide choice of fabrics, with extremely fine yarns from the highest counts both in cotton and in linen, thanks to the best cotton and linen in the world. Light, natural, pleasing to the touch and refined in their designs: they are the features of David & John Anderson fabrics.

Textiber

The company began its activities in 1949, they manufacture high-quality shirting fabrics using the most advanced technology.

SIDOGRAS, S.A

Since 1953 Sidogras is leader in the Spanish market of fabrics for shirts and blouses, with a prominent international presence in over 30 countries.

Canclini

Canclini was created in 1925 and is one of Italy’s most well-known manufacturers of premium shirting fabrics. After working with many shirting suppliers over the years, we can vouch Canclini creates world class fabrics. We are proud to be in business with them.

Tessitura Grandi & Rubinelli

A boutique mill based outside Milan that manufactures and sells high quality shirt fabrics. They've made a great effort not only to build an exceptional mill, but to instill collaborative and humanist values in their company.

Loro Piana

Thomas Mason

David and John Anderson

Textiber

SIDOGRAS, S.A

Canclini

Tessitura Grandi & Rubinelli

Collar Guide

Classic Spread Collar

This collar is very convenient for more casual use. You could use tie with this collar.

Recommended:As a more traditional alternative to our cutaway styles. It has a wider collar blade that is particularly well-suited for wear with tie under a jacket.

Measurements:Centre neckband: 3.5 cm
Peak: 7.5 cm

Semi Spread Collar

This collar is recommendable to use with tie single or double tie knots. This is a really practical, comfortable and stylish option.

Recommended for:using it with a fuller tie knots but can be left unbuttoned for a debonair look. It also looks great done in a contrast white.

Measurements:Centre neckband: 3.5 cm
Peak: 7.5 cm

Cutaway

This collar is really convenient for wearing with a large knot because the spread makes the entire knot of the tie visible.

Recommended for:fashionistas, statement makers, guys who wear Italian suits, guys with narrow faces.

Measurements:Centre neckband: 3.5 cm
Peak: 9 cm

Point

For many decades marked the exponent of elegance on shirts.

Recommended for:traditionalists, minimalists, bowtie wearers, formal shirts, guys with round faces, narrow ties as peaks are close.

Measurements:Centre neckband: 3.5 cm
Peak: 7.5 cm

Hidden Button (Tab Collar)

This is a variation of the button-down collar featuring hidden buttons, making the shirt look dressier, causing the knot to lift and the collar to crease at its midpoint.

Recommended for:guys with strong attention to detail, guys who hate collar flares, guys who take pride in their tie dimples, guys who enjoy the art of dressing.

Measurements:Centre neckband: 3.5 cm
Peak: 7.5 cm

Mao (band Collar)

This collar was traditionally worn in China in formal occasions but now is consider a casual style. It is a great option when you are not wearing tie.

Recommended for:artists, guys who enjoy layering, guys who are nostalgic about old times.

Measurements:Centre neckband: 3.5 cm

Rounded (Club)

Club collars have rounded edges, and were very popular in the first few decades of the twentieth century. They have recently received a surge in popularity.

Recommended for:club member, guys who play by the rules, guys who appreciate exclusivity.

Measurements:Centre neckband: 3.5 cm
Peak: 6 cm

Vintage Club

Sport Button

This collar is very convenient for more casual use without wearing tie.

Recommended for:casual settings, preppy guys, sportsmen, students, non-tie wearers.

Measurements:Centre neckband: 3.5 cm
Peak: 7.5 cm

Wingtip (Tuxedo)

The wingtip is our most formal collar style.

Recommended:to be worn under a tuxedo for white or black tie events..

Measurements:Centre neckband: 4 cm
Peak: 5 cm

Classic Spread Collar

Semi Spread Collar

Cutaway

Point

Hidden Button (Tab Collar)

Mao (band Collar)

Rounded (Club)

Vintage Club

Sport Button

Wingtip (Tuxedo)

Cuff Guide

One button square corner

This elegant cuff features one button and is ideal for formal or sport.

Recommendation:This cuff is cut straight and also the most versatile model. It fits well to both casual as well as formal shirts.

Measurements:6.50 cm

One button round corner

This classic cuff features one button and a round cut is perfect for any situation.

Recommendation:The one button round corner cuff is understated and classic. You simply can’t go wrong with this choice.

Measurements:6.50 cm

Double button square corner

This elegant cuff features two buttons.

Recommendation:This cuff is cut straight making it a really versatile model. This cuff fits best if you are looking for a tighter fit around the wrist.

Measurements:7.50 cm

Double button cut corner

This classic cuff features two buttons.

Recommendation:This cuff has two buttons and gives you a more classic look. It fits best if you are looking for a tighter fit around the wrist.

Measurements:7.50 cm

French cuff round corner

This cuff is a very fashionable and must be worn with cuff links in a business setting. Many people who chose this cuff also go for contrasting white collars and cuffs to make the cuffs really stand out.

Recommendation:We recommend our French cuff if you are looking for a formal cuff. This cuff is used in Black Tie occasion shirts, paired it with a turned down collar.

Measurements:13 cm in total 6.50 cm folded

French cuff square corner

Single link cuff

It's a traditional barrel cuff (rectangular piece of fabric with square corners that's closed with links).

Recommendation:We recommend this cuff for White tie occasion shirts, paired it with a wingtip collar.

Measurements:6.50 cm

Vintage Club

Sport Button

Wingtip (Tuxedo)

The wingtip is our most formal collar style.

Recommended:to be worn under a tuxedo for white or black tie events..

Measurements:Centre neckband: 4 cm
Peak: 5 cm

One button square corner

One button round corner

Double button square corner

Double button cut corner

French cuff round corner

French cuff square corner

Single link cuff

Vintage Club

Sport Button

Wingtip (Tuxedo)

Back Guide

Central pleat

The center box pleat is a classic design detail and a more casual option traditionally seen on Brooks Brothers and Gitman button downs or similar styles. Like the rear side pleats, it adds 2″ of fabric to increase range of motion reaching forward. Style wise, the center box pleat is not ideal for super slim fitting shirts.

Central pleat with hook

Originally placed at the back of the shirt collar, it was meant to keep a man’s shirt wrinkle-free in the Ivy League locker rooms. Select this option for a more sporty look.

Flat

No back pleats on the back of the shirt makes for a clean, slim look. If you’re going for a more modern, fitted look that is fitted through the chest and midsection then this will be the best choice.

Flat with side darts

Side darts will give your shirt a fitted appearance.

Outer pleats

Selecting rear side pleats will add a total of 2″ of additional fabric across the upper back of the shirt compared to the no pleats option while keeping the yoke and chest width the same. Rear side pleats are a great option if the purpose of adding them is to increase range of motion when reaching forward.

Central pleat

Central pleat with hook

Flat

Flat with side darts

Outer pleats

Placket Guide

English placket

We recommend this dressy placket for formal or business wear.

Hidden placket

This placket features hidden buttons. It's recommended when you want a polished look.

No placket

We recommend this dressy placket for formal or business wear.

Piquet placket

The pique is closely associated with white tie. It's the most formal choice for a tuxedo shirt. It holds more starch than plain fabric, so produces a stiffer shirt front. You'll want to go with French cuffs and a nice set of studs with a pique bib. The pique bib front looks best with a peak or shawl lapel jacket, and we suggest it for any event labeled white tie. We recommend to pair it with a spread (but not cutaway) collar, unless you're going to a white tie event, which calls for a traditional wingtip.

Pleated placket

The pleated front works in just about any formal wear setting. We recommend to pair it with a spread (but not cutaway) collar, unless you're going to a white tie event, which calls for a traditional wingtip.

English placket

Hidden placket

No placket

Piquet placket

Pleated placket

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